Category Archives: ADEAM

ADEAM – Fall 2016

  Covering yourself with material in a material world; through fashion we identify. We do certain looks that are instantly recognisable and carry connotations of our identity. In a guise as ourselves, consciously or not we endorse brands, our own personal choices, our own limitations, our ideals. It’s possible to speak through fashion, communicate through clothes, be who we fashion ourselves to be.

Yet fashion is also emblematic of identity. Like personality, we’re enshrouded in cut-out pattern. We’re this and we’re that, pieces put together, sutured together, held together. Given a finish. Direction. Purpose. Our identities are amalgamations of the world as we find it. Inside and out. Thick and thin.

in 2016 the planet is an image. we had this internet thing to communicate.

image

A decision to write about Adeam was taken. Initially the idea was to write about it from the luxury of my front room because it’s possible to do that nowadays. Based in New York, Adeam also shows in Tokyo, designer Hanako Maeda’s native city. Eventually I decided to travel to Tokyo Midtown as it’s not far by train.

Distribution of information seems paramount in the world we inhabit. We can use what we see on the internet to replace a physical presence. We have this alternative online identity to manage. Yet we still have the other identity: we’re still human.

Nevertheless, we’re becoming as inconvenienced by our mechanisms of ease and comfort as in E.M. Forster’s story The Machine Stops (1909) – (like the protagonists in the story, the violins and strings playing the accompaniment at the show were inside a wall of cells). Convenience has merged with instantaneity. Instead of making a telephone call, we hit send, sometimes expecting a reply within an hour. Instead of waiting for the latest issue, we go online.

Just as cyber servers are unreliable, as pictures are unreliable, you can’t tell me that my brain has little areas of colour lighting up when they’re in use, it’s not convincing. It’s imaging. See that dress in the picture above. It’s black, isn’t it? Or dark blue? Or white? Or gold? Is it even a dress? Are they trousers? I guess to know you need more than just one image. You need to be there in person, watching the video or thumbing through the lookbook.

I love shirt dresses. My favorite piece in this collection was the black one with the strips crossing at the solar plexus. It looked more flattering in reality than in the photograph of it.

Looking at these images, I wonder whether their silhouettes were designed around these images: the simulacrum. These are real dresses. Ultra modern. They exist somewhere forward thinking beyond pictures. If only they existed on my body. Even momentarily. If only.

Pictures from:

tokyo-mbfashionweek.com/en/brands/detail/adeam

Also lookbook pictures here:

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/adeam

http://www.adeam.com